As the days grow shorter and it gets colder outside, hardly any other plant brings as much colour and elegance into your home as the amaryllis. To ensure you can enjoy its large, magnificent flowers for as long as possible, it is essential to look after your amaryllis properly. Fortunately, looking after an amaryllis isn’t difficult at all once you understand the basic needs of this impressive plant. In this guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know about caring for amaryllis, so that your amaryllis bulb stays healthy year after year and reliably produces new flowers.

Planting amaryllis and finding the ideal spot

The key to a magnificent bloom begins when you plant your amaryllis in winter. Choose a heavy pot that will provide sufficient stability for the large flower later on and won’t tip over. The pot should also be only slightly larger than the amaryllis bulb itself. As a rule of thumb, there should be no more than a thumb’s width of space between the bulb and the rim of the pot. The best soil for amaryllis is a high-quality, loose and well-draining potting compost that reliably prevents waterlogging. You can also line the bottom of the pot with some drainage material or clay. When planting, place the bulb deep enough so that around 40 per cent of the bulb is still visible above the soil.

Choosing the right location: Amaryllis require a bright and warm spot during the growing season. A temperature of around 21 degrees Celsius – for example, near a large window, but without direct midday sun – is ideal. It is particularly important when caring for potted amaryllis to rotate the pot occasionally. This ensures that the thick stem grows straight towards the light and does not lean to one side.

Watering and fertilising amaryllis correctly

Proper water management is an essential part of successfully caring for potted amaryllis. You should water your amaryllis as soon as the first buds appear. Initially, water very sparingly and preferably via the saucer. Increase the amount of water slightly as soon as the stem starts to grow noticeably. The soil must never be allowed to dry out completely, but must not be soggy either.

As soon as the first flowers open, you can fertilise the amaryllis. Use a standard liquid fertiliser for flowering plants every one to two weeks. The ideal fertiliser for amaryllis during the flowering period has a higher potassium and phosphorus content, which sustainably promotes further growth. Incidentally, an interesting special case is the care of wax amaryllis: as the specially prepared bulb has already stored all the necessary nutrients and moisture inside, it requires neither water nor fertiliser. You can simply place this variety in a bright spot and enjoy it, which makes caring for this amaryllis much easier.

Amaryllis Care: A Quick Guide

To ensure you always have the most important care steps to hand, here is a concise Amaryllis Care: A Quick Guide. This covers the key points at a glance:

• Planting: Plant the amaryllis bulb so that only 60% is buried in very well-draining soil.
• Position: Place in a bright, warm spot; a room temperature of around 21 °C is ideal; avoid direct midday sun.
• Watering: Water sparingly, especially at the start; it is essential to avoid waterlogging.
• Fertiliser: Fertilise regularly but always moderately during the active flowering period.

Caring for amaryllis after flowering and throughout the year

How you care for your amaryllis after flowering plays a key role in determining whether the plant will flower again the following year. You should always remove wilted flowers promptly. You must also cut back the thick stem of the amaryllis as soon as it turns yellow and becomes limp. However, it is essential to leave the long green leaves on the plant. Through photosynthesis, the leaves help the bulb store valuable energy for the next cycle.

For successful year-round amaryllis care, after the last frosts in May, the plant will thrive outdoors in a warm, partially shaded spot in the garden or on the balcony. If you wish, you can also plant the bulb, along with its green leaves, in a flower bed. In late summer (from around the end of August), it is then time to gradually stop watering completely so that the foliage withers back. If the bulb has grown significantly over the summer, you should now repot the amaryllis.

Dormancy period: overwintering and encouraging it to flower again

Once the foliage has completely withered in early autumn (September), the well-deserved dormant period begins in a dark, cool cellar at around 15 degrees. To do this, you should dig up the bulb (from the flowerbed or pot) and carefully remove any remaining soil. The amaryllis needs a cool, dark dormant period of around 3 months to regain the impulse to flower.

• To store the bulb correctly, read our detailed article on how to overwinter your amaryllis.
• Sometimes the plant refuses to flower after its dormant period. However, with the right care, you can get any amaryllis to flower.

If you follow this advice, your amaryllis bulb will reward you time and again with an unrivalled display of flowers, even in the depths of winter.

Frequently asked questions

How do you care for a potted amaryllis properly?

Place the amaryllis in a bright, warm spot (approx. 21 °C) out of direct midday sun. Water very sparingly at first and only increase the amount of water once the flower stalk is visibly growing. It is essential to avoid waterlogging, as this can cause the bulb to rot. As soon as the flowers open, you should feed the plant with liquid fertiliser every one to two weeks.

How often and how much should I water my amaryllis?

Water lightly just once after planting. Only start watering regularly once the flower stalk is about 10 centimetres tall. It’s best to water via the saucer so that the bulb doesn’t get wet from above. Always allow the top layer of soil to dry out slightly between waterings.

When and how should I prune a faded amaryllis?

You should cut off wilted individual flowers promptly so that the plant does not waste energy on seed production. Do not remove the thick flower stalk until it has turned yellow and become soft. However, under no circumstances should you cut off the green leaves! The amaryllis absolutely needs these over the summer for photosynthesis, to store nutrients in the bulb.

When should you move the amaryllis to the cellar?

The amaryllis is moved to the cellar in early autumn to begin its important dormant period. From August onwards, stop watering completely so that the foliage dries out. Around September or October, cut off the dried-out leaves and place the bulb, still in its pot, in a cool (approx. 15 °C) and completely dark place for 8 to 10 weeks.

How do I get an amaryllis to flower again next year?

The secret to getting it to flower again is strictly observing the autumn dormant period. After 8 to 10 weeks in the dark cellar, take the bulb out again in November or December. If necessary, repot the bulb in fresh soil, place it in a warm spot by a window and start watering it gently again.

What can I do if my amaryllis only produces leaves?

If your amaryllis produces plenty of foliage but no flowers, it is highly likely that the cool, dark dormant period in autumn was skipped. Without this break of at least 8 weeks, the plant lacks the necessary cold stimulus for flower formation. Another possible cause could be a lack of nutrients if the plant was not fertilised sufficiently the previous summer.